Weather
1. Surprisingly, the sun does more to damage a roof than wind or rain. The constant bombardment of the sun’s rays works to make shingles brittle over time. The sun also softens the tar that binds shingles together, which makes them susceptible to warping. Due to warping and cracking, rainwater can penetrate through the interlocking system of shingles your roof integrity depends on.

Rain and wind, after the sun, are the most common causes of roof leaks. Stormy weather can make shingles shift, bypass imperfect seals around vents and flashing, and otherwise infiltrate beneath the shingles and roofing felt.

Lack of Workmanship and Roof Abuse
2. If a roof is not put on properly in the first place, it is susceptible to immediate leakage. You won’t have to wait long after getting a new roof to discover whether your contractors did their job. The first heavy rainstorm will be your litmus test.

The most common origination of a roof leak due to poor workmanship is valleys, those sloping canals that occur between two sections of pitched roof. Valleys must be tar papered in the herringbone style, as must the shingles, and between those layers should be a single piece of metal flashing running all down the length of the valley. If this part is not done properly–which happens from time to time in the roofing industry, which tends to hire laborers when it should be employing skilled professionals–your roof will leak. If you pay for real roofers you’ll likely avoid that. (The second most common place for a roof leak to start is all along the ridges, not because of a lack of workmanship, but because ridge caps are susceptible to sun and wind damage.)

Roof abuse happens when homeowners walk on hot shingles with, say, cleated combat boots. The heat melts the tar, making the shingles temporarily impressionable, and the rough-bottomed shoes wreak their permanent havoc. Skidding down a roof or putting undue pressure on shingles is another big Don’t.

Lack of Maintenance and Inspection
3. Loose shingles, vents or flashing can allow water to seep underneath–even uphill, against the pitch of the roof–due to wind. Worn-down shingles due to weather or abuse tend to cause leaks as well. Most roof leaks can be avoided with twice-annual inspection.

Note that most roof leaks start with age, as all roofs need eventual replacement. [ehow]

Raccoons migrate into your attic by tearing the shingles around your attic vents leaving your roof vulnerable to outside elements.  Now what?

Raccoons can breed anytime from December to June, but most of them breed around February. Gestation is 63-65 days, with most babies being born in April or May. Litter size is usually 2-5 babies. At about 8 weeks old, the young usually leave the den and follow the mother to a new location. Young are weaned at about 12 weeks and disperse in the fall or early winter; or they may stay with the mother until the following spring. Raccoons are nocturnal animals.

When eviction techniques are used, do not expect the raccoon to leave until well after dark.

Raccoon Repellants

• Cayenne pepper
• Repel ® Granules – A commercial dog and cat repellant, available at most pet stores or garden centers. The active ingredient is nonyl methyl ketone. Some other brands are Boundary ® and Dog-Gone ®.
• Hot Pepper Repellant Recipe
  You need:
  • One chopped yellow onion
  • One chopped Jalapeno pepper
  • One tablespoon of Cayenne Pepper
• Boil ingredients for 20 minutes in two quarts of water. Then let it cool and strain the mixture through cheesecloth. You can apply this with a pesticide sprayer or a spray bottle. This will deter just about any animal from an area where it is applied. The only draw back is that it only lasts for three to five days.

Mechanical Repellants

Scarecrow ® by Contech is a motion-activated sprinkler. It works great for keeping most animals out of yards or large areas. For more information, visit Contech at http://www.scatmat.com or call them at 1-800-767-8658.

Electronic Pest Control

We have recently started using this type of method. So far, we have had great success in repelling raccoons with the 0700 Deluxe Dual Speaker Pest Repellant ® from Weitech Inc. at http://www.weitech.com. They can be reached at 1-800-343-2659, if you would like to call.

Note: Raccoons are very intelligent animals, so these exclusion tactics usually work quite well. If a raccoon tries to get food or shelter and not only can’t get to it, but also feels uncomfortable, then after a couple of attempts, they will stay away and find an alternative source.

Raccoons on the Premises

• Be sure to eliminate all outside food sources, such as pet food, birdseed, etc. in the evening. If your pets must be fed outside, then remove all food at night.
• Use metal or heavy plastic trash containers. Keep the lids securely fastened to prevent odors from escaping. If needed, secure lids with bungee cords, ropes, etc. that have been soaked in Tabasco sauce ® or the commercial repellant, Ropel ®, available at garden, hardware, pet or feed stores. If they still get in, you can pour about one cup of ammonia in the trash can every week, after the trash has been picked up. Rubbermaid ® makes a trash can with a screw on the lid. You should always try to store trash in a garage or a shed.
• Repel ® Granules, which is a dog and cat repellant, can be sprinkled around any area where the raccoons gather, be it roof, attic, trash area etc.
• Keep BBQ grills clean or stored in a secure place.
• When you see a raccoon in the yard, turn on the lights, run outside yelling and swinging a broom and scaring them off. You can also spray them with a hose. CAUTION: Do not corner a raccoon, thereby forcing them to defend themselves.
• Use an electric fence around the perimeter of the premises. Run the wire around the tops of all fences. If the raccoons can go under the fence, you will need to run a wire along the bottoms of the fence as well. The electric fence should be high voltage, low amperage, so that no harm can be done to any animal or person. We recommend the Fido Shock Electric Fence ®. It comes in a kit with everything you need and it is very versatile and easy to set up. It is available at many pet and hardware stores.
• Use a Scarecrow.
• Use the Hot Pepper Recipe.
• Light the area with flood lights or motion detector lights. Motion detector lights usually work the best.

Raccoons in Chimneys (Fire Brick)

• It is best to leave the raccoons alone until mom takes the babies out. Raccoons do not build a nest and they do not bring food back to the den. When the babies are about 8-10 weeks of age, the mother will start weaning them. She will take them out of the chimney and not return.
• If you can’t wait, place a bowl of ammonia in the fireplace, and if needed, leave the flu open 1/8 in. Most flues are not airtight. If you don’t smell ammonia in the room where the fireplace is, then the flu is not airtight. This in itself usually works.
• Place a radio in the fireplace. Tune it to a talk program. Do this during the day, and use it in combination with the ammonia; or, you might want to use an ultra sonic device. Give the raccoons two to three nights to move out.
• Scare them out (only if the ammonia & the radio does not work) by using a broom or pole. Try yelling. As a precaution you might want to use gloves.
• After the raccoon is gone, secure the chimney with a chimney cap so this does not happen again.

Note: Under no circumstance should a fire be used to evict any animal. Starting a fire will only burn and/or kill the animal.

Raccoons in Chimneys (Metal Insert)

• In metal chimney pipes, the raccoon may not be able to climb out on its own.
• From the roof, drop down a thick rope or cloth, such as old blankets or sheets, so the raccoon can climb out. It is a good idea to tie a knot in the rope or cloth about 1 ft. apart, this will provide a more secure climbing surface. You may have to tie 2 or more together to reach the bottom of the chimney. Tie something to provide weight to the bottom of the rope or cloth, such as a hammer, pair of pliers, etc. Be sure to lower slowly. This will help you to feel the bottom, especially if the pipe is curved. Also, it will provide stability when the raccoon climbs up and out.
• Make sure it reaches the bottom. Then secure the rope or cloth at the top. Raccoons are heavy, so secure it well.
• Leave the area completely alone. The raccoon climb out in 1-24 hours.
• After the raccoon is gone, secure the chimney with a chimney cap, so this does not happen again.

Raccoons in the Attic

• It is best to leave them alone until mom moves the babies out.
• Scare them out. Use caution! Just making your presence known will usually do it. Go into the attic a few times a day with a flashlight.
• Shine the light on them and talk to them. But if touched or threatened, by being cornered or feeling boxed in, they will defend themselves and they are quite adept at doing so.
• If there are babies, give the mother 1 or 2 nights to relocate the family.
• Roll some rags into a tight ball and tie with twine to keep them tight. Soak the rag balls in ammonia. Toss them into the area of the attic where the raccoon is located.
• If you can, sprinkle Cayenne pepper or Repel® granules, a commercial dog and cat repellant, around the entry hole, both inside and out, if this is possible.
• During the day, place a radio in the attic tuned to an all talk station.
• Use floodlights to keep the area where they are living well lit.
• Once the raccoon has moved out, secure their entry point. Use hardware cloth or welded wire.
• They usually won’t come back. If you want to use a repellant, then you can either Sprinkle Repel® granules or Cayenne pepper around the entrance area, if that is possible; or use a repellant, such as Ropel ®, sprayed around the entrance area.

Raccoons on the Roof

• Sometimes spraying water from a hose will scare them off.
• If it is a constant problem, then sprinkling Repel ® on the roof works great!

Raccoons in the Garden or Fish Pond

• Use a Scarecrow
• Use an electric fence, such as Fido Shock ®, which is high voltage, low amperage, and it will not hurt the animal or you.
• Light the area with floodlights or motion detector lights.
• If you have a small pond, build a wooden frame to cover the pond. Cover the frame with 1″ x 2″ welded wire. Secure it to the ground.
• This frame can be left on permanently or removed daily. Since the raccoons are nocturnal, just be sure the pond is covered at night.

Raccoons Coming Through Pet Doors

• Mount floodlights or motion detector lights above the pet door.
• Lock and secure the pet door at night.
• Place a piece of plywood or cardboard outside of the pet door; sprinkle a liberal amount of Cayenne pepper or Repel® granules. Be sure to lock the pet door that night and remember to do so for several nights. During the day, you can remove the repellant so that your pets can use the door. Usually, after a couple of visits, the raccoon will stay away from the pet door. The easiest method is to simply lock your pet door every night at sunset. Usually, after just a few nights, the raccoons will stop coming to your pet door. According to a study done in Colorado, the #1 reason raccoons die is from starvation. Once the raccoon realizes he can’t access your pet door for food, he will not want to waste time or energy coming to your house.

Note: If you live in raccoon habitat, a pet door for dogs or cats is not a good idea. If the raccoons discover it, they will use it to come into your home in search of food. Not only will wildlife use them, but also small humans can enter them and what they take will be more valuable than what the wildlife wants.

Raccoons in the Trash

• The easiest method is to get a good trash can with a secure lid. If they still get in, you can pour about one cup of ammonia in the trash can every week after the trash has been picked up. You should try to store trash in a garage or shed. Rubbermaid ® makes a trash can with a screw on the lid.
• Put trash out the day of pick-up instead of the night before.
• Also, try sprinkling a repellant around the trash can area. Such as, Repel® granules, Cayenne pepper, or Hot Pepper spray. [doityourself]

Three easy steps to ensuring your rain gutters or eave troughs run clear and flow smoothly gutter eaves trough.  During a rainstorm, gutters route runoff from a very large surface—a home’s roof—to where it can drain away from the house. By doing so, they protect siding, windows, doors, and foundations from water damage and help prevent flooding in basements.

To do their job, gutters and downspouts must be clear of leaves and debris. If they aren’t, drain outlets will dam up and rainwater will fill the gutters, back up, overflow, and eventually pull gutters loose from their mountings. Water that pools in troughs will rot wood gutters and rust sheet metal ones.

You can hire a service to clean your gutters, but doing the work yourself can save you $100 or more.

Plan to clean gutters at least twice a year—more often if the roof is directly beneath trees or you live in a region with frequent storms. But only take on this task if you know you can work safely from a ladder or the roof. If your roof is higher than a single story, you’re better off hiring a professional.

Choose a sturdy ladder, and place it on a firm, level base. A tall stepladder can be easier to use than an extension ladder. If you must lean an extension ladder against a gutter, protect the gutter from bending by placing a short piece of 2 by 4 inside it. Stand on the ladder with your hips between the rails, and don’t lean out over the sides. Never stand on the top two rungs.

cleaning rain guttersIf you’re comfortable working from the rooftop and your roof has a very low pitch, this can be easier than working from a ladder. But only do this under extremely safe conditions. Never work on the roof in wet, icy, or windy conditions. Wear non-slip shoes, and never lean over the edge or work near power lines.

When cleaning gutters, wear heavy work gloves to protect your hands since gutters often have sharp metal parts or screw points sticking out into their troughs. Also wear safety glasses or goggles.

The conventional method for cleaning gutters is discussed below. A method sometimes used by home handymen on low-sloped roofs is to blow dry debris out of gutters with a leaf blower. If you use this method, wear goggles and a dust mask.

Leaf-catching gutter systems are highly touted by manufacturers, but most are not a complete solution. Debris eventually settles through them, and the screens must be removed to clean out the gutters. Also, some systems are very expensive. If you opt to buy a leaf-catching system, be sure it can be easily removed for cleaning.

To clean gutters:

1) Scoop out loose debris.
Starting at a drain outlet at the low end of a gutter, use a narrow garden trowel to scoop out loose debris, working away from the drain outlet. It’s usually easiest to do this when the debris is slightly damp and pliable, not soggy or dried and encrusted. To minimize cleanup later, you can scoop the debris into a plastic garbage-can liner.

2) Blast out the gutters with a hose.
Using an on-off high-pressure nozzle mounted at the end of a water hose, wash out each length of gutter, working toward the drain outlet. This can be a messy job; try to avoid splattering mud all over your house. If necessary, use a stiff scrub brush to break-loose encrusted dirt.

3) Clear obstructions in drainpipes.
If water doesn’t drain freely through drainpipes, try flushing debris down them with a hose. If that doesn’t work, use a plumber’s auger (snake) to free and pull out debris from the bottom.  [Hometips]

1. Update Old Windows & Patio Doors

One drafty window is equivalent to having a hole in your wall, the size of a brick. With a house full of windows like that, imagine how much harder your furnace or air conditioner needs to work to maintain a comfortable temperature.  According to Cornerstone Exteriors, high-performance, energy-efficient windows keeps your home interior quieter, reduces fading of furniture/flooring, and minimizes utility bills. Windows typically comprise 10–25% of a home’s exterior wall area, and can account for 25–50% of heating and cooling needs. With spring cleaning, update your old windows and patio doors.

2. Don’t Neglect your Siding

Siding not only increases value and enhances curb appeal; it protects and insulates your home. Cornerstone Exteriors offers high-quality insulated siding that prevents energy transfer, reduces exterior noise up to 45%, and maintains comfortable interior temperature of your home.  Described by developers as “green building”, insulated siding saves energy by up to 20%.  At the end of the day, being cozy is what matters.

3. Go Green & Save with Attic Insulation

A commonly overlooked component homeowners oftentimes miss when assessing energy savings is attic insulation. Nearly 40% of energy loss occurs through the attic. To maximize your home’s energy efficiency all year round, Cornerstone Exteriors highly recommends proper insulation. Loose fill fiberglass is an insulation solution that is superior to both cellulose and expanding foam insulation. With this simple step, you will save up to 20% on energy bills and also extend the life of your roof.

The average homeowner spends up $3,000 in utility bills.  Imagine all the money and energy going down the drain. Be proactive – let a reputable, EPA Certified home improvement provider like Cornerstone Exteriors offer expertise and help you improve your home’s insulating factor. It’s that simple. Build With a Company You Can Trust.

How do I apply for the tax credit? What tax form do I need for the energy efficiency tax credits?

Answer:

Tax Form

For products “placed in service“ in 2009, you need to file the 2009 IRS Form 5695 and submit it with your 2009 taxes (by April 15, 2010).

On the 2009 1040 form, the residential energy tax credit (from Form 5695) is claimed on line 52.

For products “placed in service” in 2010, you would take the tax credit on your 2010 income taxes.

What you need to submit and save

Save your receipts and the Manufacturer’s Certification Statement for your records.

Submit Form 5695 with your taxes.